Saturday, April 28, 2012
L' Ultimo Treno
Friday, April 27th
After our break, Gerri and I set out once more to see what more we could find. Our intention was to find the old Jewish quarter or the Cannaregio district. In medieval times Jews were grudgingly allowed do business here but were not allowed to live in Venice until 1385 where they were subject to strict laws and special taxes. In 1516, as a compromise to the ant-Semitic forces that were trying to force them from the city, the doge (ruler) restricted them to an easy to isolate island near the former foundry (geto) where the word ghetto for segregated neighborhood comes from.
As their population swelled to 5,000 in the 1600s with Jews coming from other parts of Europe, the Jews experienced their Golden Age in Venice. Being restricted to their tiny neighborhood now known as the Ghetto Nuovo or New Ghetto they expanded upward, building 6 story “skyscrapers” that still stand today. Interestingly, they built 5 synagogues above the skyscrapers, since you weren't allowed to live above a synagogue this was the best use of the precious limited land.
Jewish daily life continued as they existed within their community. With the coming of fascism they, like millions of other Jews throughout Europe, were forced out to Nazi concentration camps. There is a very moving sculpture by an Italian sculptor, Arbit Blatas, named L' Ultimo Treno commemorating the events of 1943 when Jews were forced on to The Last Train.
Today the Jewish community thrives as a contributing member of the Venetian community.
A Tour of An Ancient Art Form
Friday, April 27th
Up and at 'em on this chilly, gray morning. We have places to go, things to see and so little time to see them. First stop a little cafeteria down the street where we pay a reasonable 4.30 Euro for our coffee and pastry. Duly fortified, we purchase our water bus tickets for the ride to Murano an island that is noted for artists practicing the ancient art form of glass blowing.
Again the ride is a treat as we see other parts of the Venetian cityscape. Leaving the boat we head out to explore this ancient island. Going the opposite way of the thundering tourist herd, we found a great glass shop where the greeters showed us into the viewing area to watch the artisans at work. It's a real treat to watch these artists as they choreograph their efforts to create unique glass artifacts that are admired and copied around the world. Today they were making glass tumblers. The artist has the raw material on a long metal pipe which he puts into his oven for a few minutes. Removing the pipe with the red hot glob of molten glass at the end, he then rolls it around what is to be a silver base, The glass is then rolled into various decorative chips then placed into the oven for a final firing on its way to being a finished product. It's refreshing to see something made by artisans whose trade has been passed down from generation to generation. No machine made knock offs here!
After looking at some more of the glass shops, Gerri and I set out again to explore. We walked around one of the islands then crossed over bridges to other nearby islands then finally caught the water bus back to Venice. And back to our hotel to rest up for another walk, there's so much to see and walking is the main way to see everything, so we need to get our afternoon cappuccino fortification. Only this time we stopped at a nearby restaurant and had an excellent calzone washed down by a local beer for me.
Thursday, April 26, 2012
A Walk Around Venice
Thursday, April 26th.
We awake to the sounds of a city itself that is itself greeting the day. The Hotel Bellini is a subdued grand hotel, if you can grasp that concept. The lobby is an expanse of marble and old wood. The furnishings are the type that you might find in an old stately home. Our room is comfortable with old wall paper that is actually slightly padded cloth decorated in an old style theme. The shower, unlike what we found in our last trip to Europe, is actually enclosed! No flooding the floor while we shower!
We left the hotel and stopped at a little cafe downstairs for our morning cup of cappuccino accompanied by a nice croissant. We've noticed that there is different price at snack bars and cafes depending on if you want to stand inside, or be seated at a table outside. So our mood determines which we will do when we order our ritual serving of, what is to us, the nectar of life.
Then off to Piazza San Marco we go. Walking down the streets of Venice you are acutely aware of there being no motor vehicles at all! People go about their business walking and stopping to greet their occasional friend. Deliveries to stores are different in that everything is delivered by hand. The delivery people have specially built hand trucks to haul their huge loads. Loads that you just don't see in the states.
My particular interest as we walk along and cross the many bridges that bind this city together, is how people have adapted to life surrounded by water. Most every facet of daily life has a water borne element to it. From deliveries to the larger supermarkets, construction at waterside sites, to the ambulance that speeds to emergency calls.
We reach the Piazza in due time and are taken back by this massive square filled with people from around the world. Walking along you hear the cacophony of languages as they relate events to each other. We hopped into one line, not really knowing where it was going, it appeared to be going to some type of bell tower, but quickly abandon it in favor of another line that appeared to be moving faster.
The line we chose happened to be going into St Mark's Basilica. We entered this huge, ancient cathedral and are immediately awed, as is usual in Europe, by the antiquity of this building and its treasures. We eventually enter the Treasure Room and see real treasures of ancient history. Gold chalices and scepters from the sixth century and treasures with roots in ancient Constantinople. We climbed a steep, narrow staircase to the roof top access and paid our 5 Euros to go out onto the basilica balcony and look upon the piazza. I couldn't help but be impressed by Gerri's total lack of acrophobia! She actually looked out over the railings! Go Gerri!
After awhile we left the basilica and walked around the square with its shops and outdoor restaurants. Several of the restaurants had small bands playing, I was kind of wondering if there might be a battle of the bands as one band finished its playing of the theme from The Godfather and another nearby band got ready to add its music to the mix.
The weather was getting warm so we of course had to cool down and what better way to cool down than with a scoop of gelato! Of course we had to locate a vendor who had a sizable serving for its price of 3 Euro. But victory was ours as we purchased our gelato and sat down to enjoy this Italian favorite.
As we sat we made plans for our next stop. We had decided on heading to the area of the Accademia and started to plot our walking course. But being as how we were next to a water bus stop, what better way would there be than to take the bus and leave the driving to them? I know, bad play on words, oh well. I bought the tickets, which were 6.50 Euros each and got what I thought were good directions to the correct line to take. But after watching 3 different water buses leave from different mooring stops we finally reached the correct one and were soon on our way.
We reached our stop and decided to keep walking since the day was beautiful and we still had a lot of energy left. We continued on, leaving behind the Giudecca Canal that we were just on and heading out by the many smaller canals that comprise Venice. In the average city the streets of names, but here each canal has a unique name to distinguish an address for the nearby residents. Most buildings that we pass have some kind of access to the canal whether for deliveries or visitors. Small canals open onto larger canals the same as when streets lead to a main thoroughfare.
Gerri has been impressed with my sense of direction which I haven't seemed to have lost since our last European trip. I don't even have a GPS either! We find our way back to our hotel and after resting up we have our dinner, at a decent price, at a local cafeteria. We take an evening stroll and then plan for our next days activities.
Bonoserra!
Wednesday, April 25, 2012
Venice or Splish, Splash I Was Taking a Bath
Well here we are, 3 years after our last European trip! Our last trip we covered many cities in 28 days with 13 moves before it was all over. This trip is a more leisurely trip with 3 nights in Venice, 5 nights in Florence, 5 nights in Rome, 5 nights in Istanbul then 4 nights in Georgia with our Peace Corps volunteer daughter and her friends and host family.
The flight here was uneventful, just the typical cattle call that flying seems to be comprised of nowadays. Delta Airlines has nothing on Air France when it comes to feeding their passengers. Typical airline fare, but it does fill a void.
After clearing passport control we left the terminal and headed over to the vaporetto or water bus dock. For 15 euro each we were treated to a waterborne city bus ride into Venice proper. In a way it's like traveling a time warp. You leave the modernity of air travel with its glass and concrete terminals and notwithstanding the roar of the vaporettos diesel engines, you travel to a thriving city founded in Roman times that today embraces the antiquities of its architecture and its uniqueness as a city borne from the sea. Ahh Venice! We shall explore you and treasure you!
As for the splish splash part. I seem to have forgotten the fact that sidewalks, whether they are street side or water side, do have boundaries. And, when crossing that boundary you may find yourself in an unpleasant predicament. As we left the vaporetto we headed down one of the usual broad side walks that are here in Venice. Not knowing exactly where our hotel was located, we were the proverbial wide eyed tourists as we walked marveling at the sights and all the while looking for our hotel. I stepped backwards trying to find a street name which are usually painted on the side of buildings. As I stepped back I suddenly found there was no more sidewalk there! I stepped into the canal and falling to the sidewalk as well. I got my left leg into the drink about halfway and rapped my right knee on the sidewalk. Luckily there happened to be a moored boat there as it broke my fall and saved me from what could have been a disastrous fall into a Venetian canal. As it was I only suffered a big knot on my right knee (which has subsided substantially) and a big case of tourist dumbitis. Onward tourist!
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