Saturday, May 5, 2012
Key to the Palace
We arrived in Rome on Thursday, May 3rd after taking an inter city train from Florence. I booked the train on the Trenitalia which is the website for the national train system. Not knowing which train is which I went for the cheapest price (called a mini ticket) which was 38 Euros for 2 tickets, a savings of about 50% over the price of the usual ticket. I later came to find out the inter city train takes twice the travel time than that of the Freccia train...Oh well, live and learn but it was a nice train ride through pretty Italian countryside.
Arriving at Rome's termini train station is almost like arriving at Grand Central Station in New York City, although I think Grand Central has more character to it. But here we were, in Rome! The Eternal City! The city that we've only read about or seen in movies.
The first order of business was to get a taxi to our apartment. So we lugged our baggage to the taxi line and got into the first available taxi, that of an older gentleman. Older than me anywayWe gave him the address of our destination, which he acknowledged with a nod and a look into his map book. After going a few blocks repeating the name of our destination then stopping to look at his book with a perplexed look on his face, I figured that I should call the owner of the apartment for navigational help. I called Amalia, the owner, then handed the phone to the driver. They had a brief conversation, then as he headed off in the right direction, he blamed the problem on a non existent misprint in my note. Actually, we had the correct address, he just couldn't find it in his book.
So off we went to be exposed to Roman traffic. I'm sure most people have seen the chariot races in Ben Hur or other Roman epics. They have nothing on driving in Rome! Driving here seems to be survival of the fittest and a test of wills. Cars, buses, motor scooters and trucks all vie for the same piece of real estate at the same time. Pedestrians are tempting targets for the mechanized mayhem that is Rome. Cars and taxis pass on the left and on the right, motor scooters and motorcycles flit in and out of the masses of rolling iron, like minnows in a sea of sharks. Not a place that I would like to drive, I'll take L.A. Traffic any day!
We reached our destination in one piece, paid the driver and went up to meet Amalia, our land lady for the week. We enter the building through two massive wooden doors and into an old style courtyard. We then have to pass through a locked wrought iron door to enjoy our first surprise. An elevator! The elevator is like something that you may have seen in a 1940's era film. We open the outer door, then two inner wooden doors and step in the car itself, a wood paneled rectangular box the width our largest suitcase and the length of 2 bodies and 2 suit cases. It's a good thing Gerri and I like each other, a little anyway. Using this elevator is a testament to the need of being on good terms with ones spouse, if you weren't close enough before, you soon will be!
We step into the apartment and meet Amalia, an attractive woman with a friendly demeanor. The apartment is gorgeous! Amalia's flair for decorating shows in the carefully appointed interior. Things are arranged with a careful eye and with ones comfort in mind. There's even a welcoming gift of champagne on the table! After getting a tour and instructions of the apartment we bid arriverderci to Amalia and settle into our home for the week. The first thing I have to get used to are the keys! There's one for the massive wooden doors, one for the inner wrought iron door, one for the out door to our apartment and one for our apartment itself. The key to our apartments outer door is a kick for me, it's like what I would imagine a castle door key to be. A 2 sided key with unique slot carving. Doesn't take much to get me excited! We'll get ourselves settled and ready for the next part of our day.
Wednesday, May 2, 2012
A Walk Around Florence
Gerri and I took a train from Venice on Saturday to Florence. The trip took 2 and half hours rolling through the Italian countryside until we reached our destination and what was to be our home for 5 nights. We've rented an apartment in the Piazza della Signoria. A very popular area that was once the seat of Florentine power.
Sunday morning we woke up in our apartment ready to greet the day and to meet with our tour guide, Annica from Walks of Italy. Annica was born in Oakland, CA and moved to Florence 12 years ago at the insistence of her sister and has been giving tours for the past 6 years. She proved herself to be a real asset to our Florentine experience by pointing out and explaining so many things during our morning and afternoon walking tours. Touring this way was a great idea, picture just Annica, Gerri and I and one other couple. Then picture other groups of 30 to 40 people all connected by wireless head pieces following their guide like ducklings and you'll understand what I mean
Starting out from the Piazza de la Republica, we walked by many of the buildings that have added to the history and flavor of Florence. Annica, ever so capable provided much detail of what we were seeing. We finished our morning tour with a visit to Michelangelo's statute of David. Standing there marveling at the detail and then learning of Michelangelo's methods in creating this masterpiece sends shivers down your spine. You look at David's face from different angles and your perspective of what might have been his mood changes each time. Michelangelo was 26 years old when he was commissioned to create the work by Cosimo Medicci.
Our afternoon tour was conducted at the Uffizzi, the Italian word for offices, was first built in the 14th century and was the center of government and commerce. Cosimo Medici coming from humble beginnings amassed a fortune in business and along with that, power. The Medici dynasty ruled Florence with a brutal, iron hand. Medici also had a taste for the arts and commissioned artists of the day to sculpt and to paint works depicting many biblical scenes. Funny thing about the paintings is that in some way he would have the artist incorporate himself and his inner circle into the paintings. As for sculptures he would have himself as the subject in a military pose although he had never seen any kind of military action. He would even have himself cast as mythical figures. For all his brutality and greed, the last Medici having a conscience, gave all his riches away. The Uffizzi is now owned by the state government and is open for tours.
Monday the last day of April started out as a rainy free day for Gerri and I, but nevertheless we headed on our own to explore this beautiful city. We crossed one of the 7 bridges over the river Arno and walked uphill alongside an ancient city wall to Fort Belvedere. Unfortunately the fort was closed as are many of the major attractions on Mondays. So we hiked back down the hill and found another hill to the Benedictine church of St. Miniato. Legend has it that St. Miniato was beheaded along the River Arno, and not to be outdone, he picked up his head and carried it to the site of the church where he finally died. I guess after that feat he qualified for sainthood! St. Minaco is also the site of the worlds oldest pharmacy, so I guess there is a moral to the story after all!
There is so much to see in Florence, so much to learn of this magnificent city that we just can't describe. It would take many trips and the patience of a scholar to learn all there is to know about this city and its history. Gerri and I have spent 2 days following our noses and exploring till nighttime, we wish we had more time to spend here but on to our next adventure, The Eternal City, Rome!
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